Adiós Holanda, Asia me Espera

Bajaba en el ascensor cargado con una mochila grande en mi espalda. En ella llevaba camisetas, pantalones, calzoncillos y calcetines. Lo básico para subsistir durante un periodo corto de tiempo. Colgando de mi pecho otra mochila de menores dimensiones donde guardaba mis cámaras, e-reader y un libro de poemas de Pablo Neruda que me había regalado mi tía cuando vivía en Estados Unidos. Hacía ya más de 10 años que había recibido ese libro, sin embargo no había podido dedicarle la atención necesaria aún y al empacar todo sentí la necesidad de llevármelo conmigo. Quizá no solo fuera por el libro en sí, sino también por el componente sentimental que tenía. Quizá solo quería llevarme un pedacito de mi familia conmigo.

En el ascensor bajaban 4 personas más, entre ellos un matrimonio holandés de avanzada edad. Al entrar mascullaron algo en holandés pero yo llevaba los cascos puestos así que no presté mucha atención, al fin y al cabo mi holandés se reducía a “buenos días”, “gracias”, “una cerveza, por favor” y poco más. Tras cinco años en Holanda mi nivel de holandés podía haber sido sumamente mejor pero nunca llegué a sentir que me quedaría allí demasiado tiempo así que preferí usar mi tiempo en sacarme una carrera que cursé en inglés y en trabajar para poder mantenerme. Solo podía oír por uno de los cascos así que pude escuchar al señor mascullando de nuevo.

-Creo que no habla holandés.

Levanté la mirada y asentí.

-Solo inglés, no hablo holandés.

-Oh vaya, entiendo. Cuantos días has estado en Ámsterdam? –Preguntó el señor creyendo que estaba de vacaciones.

-5 años –le dije-. De hecho, hoy es mi último día.

Ambos me miraron sorprendidos y me contestaron

-5 años y no hablas nada de holandés??…, eso es…

En este momento hicieron una pausa, imagino que buscando la palabra adecuada.

-Inaceptable-. Concluyó el señor de manera tajante.

Yo lo miré y esbozando una sonrisa le contesté.

-Pues tiene que ser aceptable, porque llevo 5 años viviendo aquí y nadie me ha echado todavía.

Ambos se quedaron callados y al abrirse el ascensor me desearon buenos días.

Esta situación podría resumir a la perfección mi relación con la comunidad holandesa durante mi periplo en Ámsterdam. Si conocéis a alguien que haya vivido en Holanda por un tiempo seguro que os dirán que los holandeses son en general gente muy directa, que no tiene pelos en la lengua y que son uno de los pueblos más tolerantes que hay. Desgraciadamente, a mi modo de ver la línea entre ser directo y ofensivo es traspasada a menudo y la tolerancia nace de una situación de superioridad, es decir, para que alguien sea tolerado tiene que haber otra parte que tolere, y que por tanto se mantenga en una situación de superioridad manifiesta. El holandés, por norma general, contará contigo, te preguntará, te escuchará, pero a la hora de tomar la decisión final, hará lo que le salga de los huevos. Con esto no quiero decir que no tengan cosas buenas. El país posee una de las mejores economías del planeta, los espacios públicos están muy cuidados, el estado de bienestar funciona, o al menos funciona mejor que en casi todos lados, apenas hay criminalidad y uno siente que sus impuestos sirven para algo. En cuanto a sus gentes no se puede negar su pragmatismo, se amoldan a toda situación con una facilidad que llama la atención y son bastante coherentes con lo que dicen y hacen.

Pero basta ya de hablar de Holanda, Bangkok estaba esperando y como acostumbro en mis viajes no había planeado ni donde me quedaría las primeras noches. La premura hizo que enviara dos solicitudes de alojamiento por Airbnb y como no podía ser de otra manera al llegar a Moscú, donde hacía escala mi vuelo, descubrí que ambos anfitriones habían aceptado mis solicitudes y me habían realizado los cobros correspondientes. No hay mejor manera de empezar un viaje que siendo generoso con sus gentes y regalando 130 euros a una familia Tailandesa pensé, aunque por si acaso envié un mensaje pidiendo la devolución, al menos parcial, de la reserva. Amablemente me enviaron a la mierda como yo había hecho con tantos otros cuando trabajaba en el hotel y recibía llamadas de clientes que se habían equivocado al hacer sus reservas no-reembolsables, karma supongo, unido a una buena dosis de idiotez por mi parte.

Durante el vuelo a Moscú, fletado por Aeroflot, iba entre una señora rusa con pinta de aristócrata y un holandés con pinta de… holandés. Justo delante de mi asiento viajaba una pareja, no tengo claro la nacionalidad del hombre pero la mujer era tailandesa y estaba visiblemente enferma. Desde el comienzo del vuelo estuvo vomitando en una de esas bolsas de plástico que te dan en el avión. Tosía, estornudaba y no paraba de moverse en su asiento. Ahí fue donde contemplé la amabilidad y bondad del pueblo ruso, cada persona que pasaba a su lado la miraba con desprecio, las azafatas le preguntaron en repetidas ocasiones si se trataba de una simple gripe o se había contagiado de algo en algún país que había visitado previamente y para finalizar la aristócrata se tapaba la boca con su fular para no contagiarse al tiempo que hacía aspavientos llamando a la azafata en cuanto el avión hubo despegado. Mi dominio del ruso es parecido al del holandés, pero me pareció entender que la señora consideraba “inaceptable” (aquí me vino a la mente mi vecino holandés) que le hicieran viajar con una persona enferma y que no quería contagiarse así que exigía un cambio de asiento. Al rato la azafata volvió y la aristócrata rusa se marchó con el mismo desdén que había mostrado durante el despegue. En el fondo yo lo agradecí porque aún a riesgo de contagiarme, viajar en el asiento del medio es absolutamente dramático. Además, de una gripe me podría curar en 3 días, pero la estupidez humana no tiene tratamiento y corría el riesgo de que se me pegara algo.

El vuelo llegó con retraso y el enlace que debía haber sido de una hora se convirtió en un bajarse de un avión y subir en otro. El segundo vuelo transcurrió sin mayores problemas. En este último vuelo conocí a Rodrigo, un español que viajaba a mi lado y con el que mantuve varias conversaciones durante la mayor parte del vuelo. Al parecer Rodrigo iba a Bangkok a realizar unas prácticas de 3 meses con Naciones Unidas. Curiosamente yo también tenía la idea de solicitar unas prácticas en la ONU, aunque en otro departamento, así que intercambiamos nuestros números de teléfonos para mantenernos en contacto. Lo absurdo de la situación es que durante todo el viaje hablamos en inglés, hasta que justo poco antes de aterrizar se giró y me dijo:

-¿Oye tu no serás español no?

El caso es que yo había intuido desde el primer momento que era español, pero por alguna extraña razón no le dije nada. No sabría explicaros porque, hago una cantidad ingente de estupideces al cabo del día, si tuviera que buscarles explicación a todas me volvería loco.

Finalmente el avión se paró, el bus del aeropuerto nos recogió y nos dejó en el interior del aeropuerto. Recogido el equipaje me despedí de Rodrigo y le deseé suerte en su nueva andadura. Ya solo quedaba pedir un taxi y conocer mi nuevo destino. Me bajé la aplicación GRAB, una app tipo Uber de uso muy frecuente en el sureste asiático. El taxi estaba cerca. Avancé hacia la puerta número 8 y el sensor de movimiento hizo que Bangkok abriera sus piernas ante un servidor. Ya podía oler lo que la ciudad me tenía preparado.

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